Havelis that previously stood out for their towering doors, marble arches, and illustrious residents are scattered throughout the alleyways of old Delhi. But it was a long time ago. The great structures are now hardly distinguishable due to deterioration brought on by time and the lack of a comprehensive repair strategy. Here are 5 of most famous havelis of old delhi.
Begum Samru Haveli
Standing in front of the Bhagirath Palace, the former haveli of the illustrious Begum Samru, it is difficult to understand that this run-down building, which is surrounded by a mesh of wires, was once a lovely garden with nine magnificent fountains. But it was back when King Akbar Shah was in power.
The haveli was originally a grand, four-story stone and marble building constructed in a harmonious fusion of Greek, Roman, and Mughal architectural traditions. It had broad terraces and twisting stairs. In 1765, Begum Samru married Walter Reinhardt Sombre, a powerful man who was also the owner of a large estate in the nearby principality of Sardhana and control of a well-trained mercenary force.
He took pleasure in all the excesses of riches and power. Begum Samru’s haveli is among the most striking examples of our culture’s disregard for ancient architecture, probably because there are so many of them.
Haksar Haveli
Despite being a significant landmark in Chandni Chowk due to its historical significance, Haksar Haveli is hardly distinguishable now since it has been divided into a quasi-residential and a quasi-commercial district. Finding this haveli, which is located in Sitaram Bazaar just across from Chawri Bazaar metro station, requires some effort because it doesn’t look anything like it.
This location, which formerly served as the venue for Jawaharlal Nehru’s marriage to Kamala Kaul, would intrigue everyone interested in the Nehru-Gandhi trail because of how commonplace it is. Create a scene straight out of 1916 where Delhi’s political heavy hitters would have gathered in this exact location by using your imagination. Indira Gandhi is also claimed to have visited the Haveli.
Chunnamal Haveli
Due to the constant traffic Chandni Chowk’s arterial roadways experience, the outside is coated with soot and dust. However, the interiors convey a grandeur that is now lost to time. Lala Chunnamal Mal, the first municipal commissioner of British India and the first person in the city to acquire a vehicle and a phone, erected Chunnamal Haveli, one of Chandni Chowk’s most notable buildings.
It was not surprising that he could maintain this 128-room, three-story mansion with an income of about one lakh rupees in those days, keeping it fashionable with designer carpets, chandeliers, paintings, and Cooke & Kelvey watches.
Khazanchi haveli
The Khazanchi haveli, like many others in Shahjahanabad, is in ruins. Black dirt, which frequently comes from the nearby small businesses, has covered its white archways.
The mystery of this haveli, which belonged to the accountants and bookkeepers who handled Shah Jahan’s finances and was used to store the emperor’s money at the time, including coins and mohurs, isn’t significantly diminished by this, though. The haveli lies near the Chandni Chowk entrance because it had to be close to the Red Fort (which is said to have been connected to the Red Fort through a subterranean tube).
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Zeenat Mahal
A long-forgotten building called Lal Kuan is located in the back alleyways of Chandni Chowk, off to the left of Fatehpuri Masjid. Passersby who are unaware of the area’s past is nonetheless dwarfed by its gates. A portion of the first floor’s façade seems as though it has been frozen in time, with its delicate jaali work still visible and a zillion cobwebs covering it. Nobody is sure where Zeenat Mahal starts and finishes. This ancient palace is likely 100 meters long and hundreds of meters deep, if the iron-spoke gates are any clue. A portion of this building, which has been completely remodeled, now houses a government school.
When one enters the gates, one can see the elaborate brickwork that still exists today and creates the dome. The first level, which still has stores and godowns, is reached via an elaborate iron spiral staircase. If you’re using the subway, turn left at the Natraj Dahi Bhalla store and head towards Fatehpuri, or you can just take a pedal rickshaw from Red Fort to Lal Kuan.
